Thursday, August 5, 2010

Night of the living salad

It's the undead. The molded salad has returned, zombie-like, to terrorize humans in 2010.

My daughter Alice called me this morning as soon as she saw this in the new issue of Saveur magazine.




AAAAACK!

Actually, I have to give credit to Sara Dickerman for her otherwise edifying and entertaining article "Gelatin: A Thing of Beauty." I can't wait to try making the chocolate marshmallows, and as Alice said about the raw oysters with shiso, ponzo, and apple-wasabi gelees, "I would totally eat that." But lemon gelatin with pimiento, bell pepper, and cabbage: never.

Here's the Saveur recipe, in case you want to try this updated version (but like last time, you can't say I didn't warn you).

Perfection Salad

Refreshing molded salads like this one were wildly popular when a version of this recipe was first published, in Knox Gelatine: Dainty Dishes for Dainty People (Knox, 1931). Serve the dish in slices as a side for grilled meats or salmon.

1⁄2 cup sugar
1⁄3 cup rice vinegar
2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
2 tbsp. unflavored powdered gelatin,

 softened in 1⁄2 cup cold water
1 tsp. kosher salt
2 cups chopped celery
1 cup finely shredded cabbage
2 jarred pimentos, minced
1 green bell pepper, cored, seeded,

 and minced
Canola oil, for greasing


1. Stir together sugar, vinegar, lemon juice, gelatin, and salt in a small saucepan over medium heat until gelatin dissolves; chill 30 minutes. Stir in remaining ingredients.


2. Grease a 12" x 4" x 2 1⁄2 " loaf pan and transfer gelatin mixture to mold. Chill until set, about 6 hours. 



3. To release salad from mold, slide a knife along the edge of the mold; set mold in a bowl of hot water for 5 seconds. Invert salad onto a serving dish.



But here's what I want to know. How did this confluence of ideas happen? I mean, before last month, when was the last time you read about 1930s molded salads? Did Sara Dickerman read my blog post? I seriously doubt it. (Sara, if you're out there, say something!) I guess it's just one of those things that's in the air. Weird.

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