Wednesday, July 22, 2009

The Leeky Cauldron


Half a gallon of homemade chicken stock was languishing in the fridge. I had made the stock on Thursday with the intention of using it in Greek egg & lemon soup on Friday. But with Friday’s temperature up over 100 again, soup didn’t appeal. By yesterday it was definitely time to use the stuff up. Fortunately I took a look at Sarah Lemon’s Mail Tribune food blog at just the right time. She was extolling the virtues of fresh homegrown potatoes, and mentioned her recent craving for vichyssoise. How ever could I have forgotten about vichyssoise!

I was an avid cook as a child and teen, a hobby heartily endorsed by my father. My first year in college he gave me a boxed set of Mastering the Art of French Cooking and right away I set about systematically learning the classic methods described therein (I’ll be posting more on this subject in a couple of weeks). First I learned to make stock, and one of the first things I used it for was vichyssoise.

In MAFC, Julia Child tells us that vichyssoise is an American invention based on French potage Parmentier, which is essentially the same soup except that it is served hot. Here’s a bit more on the history, including a recipe from the Chef Louis Diat at the Ritz in New York where the dish originated. I have always used Julia Child’s recipe but next time I will try sautéeing the leeks in butter first as described by Mr. Diat.

Here’s how Julia says to make it:

Vichyssoise

3 C peeled sliced potatoes
3 C sliced white of leek
1-1/2 quarts white stock (chicken or veal)
salt to taste
½ to 1 C whipping cream
salt and white pepper
2 to 3 T chives

Simmer the vegetables in stock with a little salt for 40 to 50 minutes, until vegetables are tender. Puree the soup in a blender, or put through a food mill and a fine sieve.

Stir in the cream. Season to taste, oversalting slightly as salt loses savor in a cold dish [I love how Julia tells you this stuff] Chill.

Serve in chilled cups and decorate with minced chives.

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