New Sammy’s Cowboy Bistro

We’ve been trying to get to Sammy’s all summer. Sammy's is hands down, without a doubt, the best restaurant in southern Oregon. In fact, so far as I know, it is the best restaurant in all of Oregon, and much of California besides. We’ve been eating there as often as the budget has allowed ever since we moved here in 1991. Since the budget doesn’t allow much, that’s normally been twice a year.

This year, various factors necessitated putting off our traditional June date night at Sammy’s. Then family business called Andreas to take off this morning for fifteen days in Greece without me. He goes with my blessing, but I wasn’t going to say no to a conciliatory dinner at Sammy’s. When he called the restaurant Tuesday for a reservation, the only time available for Friday night was 9 pm. We took it, along with the promise of earlier seating in the event of a cancellation. On Thursday they called back and we were in at 8:30, and then Saturday afternoon we got another call for 7 pm. Perfect.

We used to consider Sammy’s one of the best-kept secrets in the Rogue Valley. Locals dining there 15 years ago were reluctant to recommend it for fear of diminishing their own chances for a future reservation at one of the only six tables. It’s not such a secret anymore. Word got out somehow – how could it not – and I guess we should all be glad for the proprietors’ sakes that the place is so popular. Last night, from the snatches of conversation we picked up, it seemed our fellow diners were all Californians up for the festival (one table of two had another food blogger at it, and the people at the big table in the next room were taking photos of their food as well. Dinners at Sammy’s seem to be well-documented these days).

Before the remodel, Sammy’s sported an (extremely) low-key exterior: it was a multi-colored shack with a mostly burnt-out flashing arrow, and no sign. Now it has a more conventional California-mission face with the restaurant’s name spelled out in big letters above the door. I do miss the diamond-in-the-rough look – I felt like I was entering a speakeasy, a private boîte open only to those in the know. But the original six white linen-covered tables, arranged in three rooms with combination bistro and cow motif on the walls, is still contained within the new exterior. We always ask for a table in this old area; the new addition includes an attractive bar, tile floor and custom hammered-metal tables and is sleek and modern but loud. The biggest problem with it is that in there we miss the quirky charm of the original.

The food at Sammy’s is entirely the creation of the talented Charlene Rollins, and the extensive wine cellar is the responsibility of her husband Vernon. When the place was smaller, Charlene literally did all the cooking herself. More tables mean she has some additional help in the kitchen now, but she has made certain that the food meets the same standard of excellence as before the expansion. The food itself is artfully presented but not fussy; creative and interesting but not outré. It’s made with attention to what’s local, what’s fresh, and what’s good. Much of it comes from the restaurant’s own garden or nearby, named producers. It’s a lot like eating at the home of the very best cook you know. Vernon and Charlene Rollins have been creating fine food in California, France and Oregon since 1978 (the whole interesting story can be read here). There are usually red meat, fowl, fish, and vegetarian options, and the kitchen is open to making adjustments for special dietary requests.

For my dinner last night I chose the prix-fixe menu. It began with a generous slice of organic chicken liver terrine with mixed green salad, garnished with marinated chiogga beets, spiced walnuts, pickled red onion and accompanied on the plate by thin slices of lightly toasted seeded rye bread. My main course consisted of two large grilled Umpqua Valley lamb loin chops served over a beautifully balanced risotto with sweet corn kernels, shiitake mushrooms, onion, marjoram and pecorino cheese. On the prix-fixe menu the diner gets a choice of desserts, and I selected a satisfyingly rich bittersweet chocolate cake with cherry mousse ice cream.

Andreas chose his dinner from the a la carte menu. His first course was a coho salmon and sorrel terrine with Meyer lemon crème fraiche and a small salad. Andreas can’t say no to duck, and he was not disappointed by the grilled skinless, boneless breast in spiced cherry sauce, served with braised mustard greens, applewood smoked bacon, chiogga beets, and polenta. His dessert selection was a crispy, cold torte of frozen sorbet layered with chocolate-almond meringue, served with orange sorbet and blackcurrant sauce.

Vernon is a knowledgeable wine expert; he’ll come to your table after you place your order with the server to take your wine order. We've learned to ask for his educated opinion on the wine. He’ll ask you what you like, get a gentle feel for your budget, and make some suggestions. Last night we took his advice on by-the glass options and had a cotes-de-Rhone that went well with both our meals. The wine prices are so not absurdly inflated as they are in many restaurants, and the selection is extensive. There is a $6 corkage fee if you bring your own, but if you also choose a second bottle from Sammy’s cellars then the fee for yours is waived (it’s relevant to remember here that in Oregon it is legal to bring open leftover wine home with you.)

In addition to all this, diners are kept tantalized with a small parade of clever amuse-bouches based on ingredients from the restaurant’s garden: before dinner we had a couple of grapes and tiny tomatoes accompanied by a paper-thin and spicy-hot wafer. This was followed by an egg-cup of “white gazpacho” made with cucumber, almonds, grapes, and dill, and a little plate of edamame pods served with a tiny rice ball and a spoonful Asian dipping sauce. Sammy’s is known locally for their rustic house-made bread, which is also sold in stores and farmer’s markets; at the restaurant it is served with tangy olive oil for dipping. After dessert we were presented with two tiny ground-cherries (raw tomatoes) dipped in dark chocolate.

While spendy by southern Oregon standards, urban visitors will be pleasantly surprised at the reasonable price. The prix-fixe menu last night was $51.00. First courses are around $10-15, desserts a little less, and mains around $25. Lunchtime has a different menu, with lighter dishes, soups, and salads – and is a serious bargain at around $15-20 per person.